power train frame
There are other parts that are different, but that can be re-used. The auto has a heavier radiator and a higher torque starter. The transmissions are different lengths, but close enough to use the same driveshaft. The automatic computer will work fine in the stick.
Removal of the automatic parts is pretty much a matter of following the shop manual. Get the car on STURDY supports. GET SOME HELP! This is NOT a one man job, without mechanical assistance. A lot of driveline parts have really big fasteners, highly torqued. A 1/2 inch socket set is a minimum. Soak exhaust hardware at least 24 hours in advance, every few hours, especially the studs on the cat.
Again, largely a bolt in affair, with a few tips. Install the slave cylinder AFTER the transmission is in the car. Use new bolts on the flywheel. Remember to bleed the hydraulic system. The wiring harness is dedicated: you will have to splice to connect the reverse switch, and the neutral safety switch. Whether it is the late model trans, or the automatic car, the car will now only start in neutral. I am still trying to figure out the speedo, which will have to be recalibrated.Other than the above, a straight bolt in, including the pedal assembly.
That’s about it; you do have a choice in parts- early or late. The late (’94 up) trans will fit and does have some better features; better 1-2 synchros, late oil seals, bigger clutch. Whichever you use, you must use the clutch and transmission for the respective transmission.